• Leslie's Premium Closing Kit Instructions
• Manual For Kayak Pool Assembly
• Manual For Kayak Pool Assembly Manual

How To Add Chemicals In General, Chlorine and other chemicals should be added directly to the pool water with the filter running. Chlorine should be added late in the evening while the filter is operating so the sun will not reduce the effectiveness of this product. Liquid chemicals should be added directly to your pool water.

NEVER mix chemicals, add them to the pool separately. ALWAYS add chemicals to water, not water to chemicals. NEVER add chlorine products in your skimmer if using an automatic chemical feeder (i.e. FROG) When handling and administering pool chemicals, read the instructions carefully and follow the manufacture’s directions. Proper Water Test Steps Water Test Kit A Test Kit enables you test two important factors, 1) Combined Chlorine level and 2) pH level (directions for use are included with the Kit).

A brief description of the tests are as follows: A. CHLORINE LEVEL: This test indicates how much combined chlorine (measured in Parts Per Million or PPM) is available in the water. It should be 1.5 to 2.0 PPM.

PH LEVEL: A very important test, which indicates the amount of acidity or alkalinity in the water. The ideal range is 7.2-7.6.

A low pH indicates acidic water and a high pH indicates alkaline (basic) water. PH SHOULD ALWAYS BE ADJUSTED TO THE PROPER RANGE BEFORE THE ADDITION OF CHLORINE OR OTHER CHEMICALS; otherwise it will seriously affect their performance. TIPS ON PROPER TESTING 1. The best way to treat pool water problems is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Testing enables you to compensate for changes in the water before problems develop, caused by bather load, weather, and other environmental factors. Test each end of the pool a minimum of twice per week.

PROPER STORAGE. Keep your Test Kit in a cool dark place. Too much heat, sunlight or freezing may chemically change the indicators. KEEP YOUR HANDS CLEAN. Dirty fingers may contaminate the test. TEST STRIPS 1.

A test strip from the bottle and replace cap tightly. Dip a AquaChek Dip and Check Strip into your pool for 1 second and remove.

HOLD the strip level, pad side up, for 15 seconds. DO NOT shake excess water from the test strip. COMPARE the pad nearest the handle to the Total Alkalinity color patches on the label. The Alkalinity pad will turn a shade of green depending on the Total Alkalinity of the water sample. WRITE DOWN THE RESULT. NOTE: Low pH readings may result when Total Alkalinity is less than 80 PPM.

If the Total Alkalinity pad turns blue or yellow, adjust the Total Alkalinity. Re-test until the test shows the Alkalinity between 80 to 120 PPM. MATCH the pH pad in the middle of the strip to the pH color patches on the label. The pH pad should be red-orange, between 7.2 to 7.6. WRITE DOWN THE RESULT 5. COMPARE the pad on the end of the strip to the Free Chlorine color patches on the label.

If you have enough Free Chlorine in your water, the pad will turn a shade of medium purple. The right range is 1 to 3 PPM. WRITE DOWN THE RESULT. OTHER TESTS 1.

PRO-COMPUTERIZED WATER ANALYSIS. The ultimate in computerized pool water analysis.

Take one pint of water to your local pool dealer (where available) and in a short time you will have a computer printout giving you not only results of eight comprehensive tests, but several step-by-step instructions on how to restore and maintain clear sparkling water all summer long. CALL IN TESTING. Use your Test Kit and phone the results to your local pool dealer.

His Computer System (where available) will analyze your results and he can give you step-by-step instructions on how to restore and maintain your pool water. ALWAYS USE PREMIUM QUALITY CHEMICALS AND GENUINE KAYAK™ PARTS. Clear Water Clarity Solutions Cloudy Water or Clear Green Water (not slimy). Add Mineral Remover B. Add Water Clarifier (Sand Filters) Slimy Green Water Algae A. Shock Pool Using any of the Shocks B.

Add Algaecide C. Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6 by adding pH Products D. Add Algaecide Regularly Black Spots Black Algae A.

Unfortunately, Black Algae is very tenacious and will require quite an effort to remove. For minor problems, try persistent brushing combined with a Black Algaecide. You will also need to clean the filter thoroughly. If the problem is more major, you may need to drain the pool and chlorine wash. Brown/ Rust Colored Water (not slimy) Iron A.

Add Mineral Remover, Keep Filter Clean B. Add Water Clarifier (Sand Filters) Cloudy/Milky Water pH or Alkalinity Problem A.

Leslie's Premium Closing Kit Instructions

Test and Balance with Recommended Products B. Adjust pH to 7.2-7.2 by Adding pH Products Low Sanitizer Level A. Test Water and Shock Pool Calcium Based Chlorine A. Discontinue Use and Start With Stabilized Chlorine Suspended Particles A. Clean Filter.

Continue to Filter. Keep Water Balanced. If using a Sand Filter, a Clarifier Should be used. Rapid Loss of Chlorine Insufficient Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) Large Bather Load A. Add Conditioner and Stabilizer B.

Shock Pool and Check Chlorine Level. Water Clouds When Chlorine is Added Calcium Hypochlorite Based Chlorine A. Switch to Stabilized Chlorine Slow Tabs or Quick Dissolving Tabs pH Bounce (up and down pH) Unstable Total Alkalinity A. Add pH Stabilizer White or Bleached Out Spots on the Liner Improper use of Chlorine A. Read Label and Follow Directions of Use. Brown Spots or Splotches on the Liner Low Alkalinity A.

Test and Add Alkalinity Increaser B. Add pH Stabilizer Strong Chlorine Smell Chlorine Efficiency Depleted by Chloramines A. Winterizing Your Kayak™ Pool START WITH CLEAN CLEAR WATER (vacuum if necessary) WINTERIZE YOUR POOL AS FOLLOWS: TO LOWER WATER LEVEL 1. Turn off your pump 2. Set ball valve to BOTTOM DRAIN POSITION 3. Remove filter drain plugs on cartridge filter. Install the plug into the return fitting from inside the pool.

Attach waste hose to waste fitting (extension at filter drain) 6. Let pump run until water level is below the skimmer. TO ADD WINTERIZING CHEMICALS 1. Run filter with ball valve still in the bottom drain position. Add winter chemicals according to directions on chemicals. NOTE –. USE CAUTION IN ADDING CHEMICALS.

Manual For Kayak Pool Assembly

NEVER MIX CHEMICALS. IF CHEMICALS COME IN CONTACT WITH SKIN, FLUSH WITH WATER IMMEDIATELY. REFER TO CHEMICAL CONTAINERS FOR CORRECT SAFETY PROCEDURE 3. Continue to run filter to thoroughly dissolve chemicals CAUTION – If you leave large amounts of chemicals on the floor of the pool you may cause damage to your liner. You may also bleach out the print. Always make sure all winter chemicals are thoroughly dissolved. Turn off pump and winterize your filter system according to the specific winterizing direction for the type of your filter.

FROG PREPERATION 1. Unscrew side drain valve to relieve pressure. Unscrew drain valve in back of Cycler. Allow all water to drain 4. If the Bac Pac still contains chlorine at winterizing, wrap in a plastic bag and store in shed or garage away from children, pets, open flame or anything metal.

Remove the reservoir and discard in trash. Once activated by water, the minerals will hold their purifying power for six months. Do not re-use the Reservoir the following season. Replace the cap and drain valves loosely. POOL PREPARATION 1.

Remove In-Pool Ladder by loosening the set screws in the ladder flange. Remove the ladder flanges using a deep well socket inside the flange a wrench under the deck. Remove the jet-air fitting from the inlet return (if applicable). Remove the skimmer basket and weir door. Install a winter plate over the skimmer. Install cartridge filter drain plug into return inlet fitting if not already done.

PLUMBING PREPERATION 1. Refer to your specific filter type section for winterizing your filter instructions. Disconnect the bottom drain pipe from the ball valve. Raise the bottom drain pipe until water stops running out of the pipe. Secure it with a rope to the underside of the deck. Disconnect the skimmer pipe from the ball valve.

This pipe may remain on the ground. Disconnect the return pipe from the filter.

This pipe can also stay on the ground. CAUTION- FAILURE TO FOLLOW EXACT WINTERIZING INSTRUCTIONS COULD LEAD TO IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO YOUR POOL LINER FROM FALLING ICE IN THE SPRING.

Winterizing The Sand Filter CAUTION Pool chemicals may give off corrosive fumes. Store chemicals away from system in a well ventilated area NOTICE: Allowing water to freeze will damage filter and void warranty.

If antifreeze is needed, use propylene glycol; it’s plastic compatible and non-toxic. Follow manufactures instructions. Do not use ethylene glycol based antifreeze, it’s toxic and it may damage plastic components.

Lower or drain pool. Turn pump to “OFF”; set valve handle to “WASTE”. Start pump; run until water is lowered to desired level. Turn pump “OFF”. Open all system valves.

Set multiport valve at “WINTERIZE” to allow air passage to all ports. Remove drain plug from filter. Drain filter tank completely and replace drain cap. Cover with plastic or tarpaulin to protect from weather, but do not seal from air circulation. Protect from freezing.

Standard Winter Cover Installation TO INSTALL YOUR POOL COVER 1. Place the box containing the cover at either end of the pool. Open the box and place the cover on the deck. Roll the cover out along the deck. Loosely tie down the 2 corners of the cover to the corner fence posts or deck support. Make sure the proper side of the cover will be facing up when you pull the other 2 corners across the swim area.

Using two people on opposite sides of the cover, take the leading edge of the cover in hand and pull it tightly between you. Walk the cover to the opposite end of the pool, being careful not to dip the leading edge into the water or catch it on any protruding objects. Loosely tie down the remaining 2 corners. Allow approximately 12-14 inches of pool cover to lay on the deck, with the remainder draped into and across the pool where it is supported by the underlying water. NOTE – IF USING A SAFETY COVER, SEE THE DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE LOOP-LOC SAFETY COVER. Securing The Cover WATER SLEEVES 1.

If the cover is so equipped, thread the water sleeves through the loops of the cover with the filler valve facing up. Once in place, fill the water sleeves approximately half full. This allows more than sufficient holding power while leaving room for expansion as the water freezes during the winter. Tie one end of the rope to the grommets or tarp tabs of the cover every four feet and the other end to the deck supports. To protect the pool cover from high winds, additional rope (not supplied) can be laced back and forth across the pool.

This will hold the cover down from the top and help alleviate any stress from excessively high winds. For the best high-wind protection, water sleeves should also be used. DANGER –WARNING DO NOT ALLOW LARGE QUANTITIES OF WATER, SNOW AND ICE TO BUILD UP ON THE SURFACE OF YOUR POOL COVER Two inches or less of water on your cover is permissible. Any more than this should be removed as too much water on the pool cover will cause excessive stress on the grommets and/or tarp tabs. Excessive weight will displace the water in the pool itself allowing an overflow situation. If you are unable to remove the water, loosen or cut the ropes and add new ropes.

CAUTION- FAILURE TO FOLLOW EXACT WINTERIZING INSTRUCTIONS COULD LEAD TO IRREPARABLE DAMAGE TO YOUR POOL LINER FROM FALLING ICE IN THE SPRING. Winterizing The Cartridge Filter WARNING Explosion hazard. Purging the system with compressed air can cause components to explode, with risk of severe injury or death to anyone nearby. Use only low pressure (below 5 PSI), high volume blower when air purging the pump, filter, or piping.

NOTICE: Protect the filter from freezing. Allowing the filter to freeze will damage it and will void the warranty. Clean the filter according to the instructions before winterizing. Stop the pump. Open the air release valve; open all the system valves. Remove the drain plugs from the trap, pump, and filter.

Drain the piping system. Gravity drain system as far as possible. Protect areas which retain water with non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze, (RV antifreeze) 6. Loosen the union nuts (if used) to drain all water from the filter interior. Leave these nuts loose until the system is restarted 7. Disassemble the filter (follow manual instructions). Remove the filter module and store in a warm, dry area.

If the filter is equipped with an optional internal spring check valve (in the tank outlet), manually open the check valve to allow any water trapped in the tank to drain. Cover the filter with plastic or tarpaulin to prevent water entrance and freezing.

A new pool is no fun until it’s holding water and proper installation is extremely important. In fact, nothing will get you heated up more than an incorrectly installed pool. Some of the problems that result from badly installed above ground pools may include uneven floors or a buckled/wrinkled liners.

It’s much better – and less expensive - to do it right the first time. Many homeowners decide to tackle this project themselves. Here are some guidelines to help you install your new pool. Step 3 Once sod is removed, the ground will probably not be level. The higher ground within the sod-cleared area needs to be dug out to match the lowest ground.

The ground must be measured using a level or a transit; you cannot determine level ground just by looking at it. It is not recommended to build up low ground due to the immense weight of water above ground pools hold. This weight will simply compress the earth back down. If the ground is not leveled, there is the potential for serious damage to the pool and injury to those in or near it.

The wall could collapse or sink into the ground. If conditions require that you raise ground instead of leveling it, you should consult a pool professional familiar with installing above ground pools. Step 5 When the ground is level, you'll want to lay a foundation for the pool.

Clean sand is the traditional base material for above ground pools. The sand acts as a barrier between the ground and the liner and helps to protect the liner from any rocks, roots or other hard objects. It also provides cushioning for the floor of the pool, making it more comfortable underfoot.

For additional cushioning and liner protection for above ground pools, Gorilla floor padding is a tough, felt-like material that is extremely hard to penetrate. We recommend always using sand and adding the floor padding for extra protection. It is worth the investment to protect the pool liner as replacing a liner involves both the cost of the liner itself, installation, and refilling your pool. A uniform, 2-inch layer of sand is standard (check the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific pool). Beware of using high alkaline substances such as peat moss as a base because it can corrode metal parts.

Step 6 Next will be the foundation for the pool frame, typically either patio stones or blocks which are sunk until flush with the ground. These blocks are placed beneath the pool posts and buttresses in order to support them. Each block must be level in all directions (both from side to side and front to back). Then you will also need to make sure the blocks are level with one another.

From one block to the next block, there can be no more than 1/16” out of level. As with leveling the ground, you will need to use a transit to be sure each block is level. Unlevel supports can cause the walls of above ground pools to buckle, even with a variation of only 1/8” between the blocks. Your pool will come with the manufacturer’s specific instructions for placement of stones or blocks.

Step 7 Now you're ready to assemble the pool. Installation instructions for above ground pools vary based on the manufacturer and model so follow the guidelines provided in your owner's manual. Above ground pools will typically include the following parts: bottom rails, bottom plates, uprights, pool wall, top rails, caps for uprights, coping, pool liner, and hardware. A skimmer and return fitting is often included. If your pool is delivered by truck, you have the right and responsibility to open and inspect each package before signing the bill of lading. Don't let the driver rush you to sign the paperwork.

Manual For Kayak Pool Assembly Manual

You're responsible for any concealed damage so take your time and be sure no damage occurred in transit. Compare what you have to the manufacturer’s parts list and be sure you've received all necessary parts in good condition. Nothing is more frustrating than having a half-assembled above ground pool only to discover you’re missing part AB19 and it will take the manufacturer 2 weeks to ship it. Step 8 Once the pool frame and walls are up, you should create a cove.

This is a 6 – 8 inch wedge of sand built all the way around the inside edge of the pool wall. Creating the cove is mandatory for above ground pools – do not skip this step! The cove will keep the liner from slipping under the pool wall and provide a protective layer between the liner and the metal frame of the pool. Bevel the sand to form a 45 degree wedge along the entire inner circumference of the pool wall.

The sand should be uniform all the way around and tamped down. As an alternative, pre-manufactured pool cove is available in two forms, Peel & Stick which has adhesive backing, and Clip & Stick which snaps onto the track of the pool wall. When the cove is completed, tamp down the sand in the entire pool area to even out the ground and reduce divots in the floor of the pool. Any sand on the pool wall above the cove should be removed to prevent it from rubbing against the liner and possibly causing pinholes to form.

Step 9 Now comes the fun part of installing above ground pools - the liner. Since this is the most delicate part of the pool, we recommend inspecting it first. Open the box containing your liner very carefully - do not use a sharp object. Unfold the liner and spread it out, making sure the ground is clear of anything that could puncture it. Check for any holes or tears and examine the seams to make sure they are properly sealed.

This is very important as you do not want to discover a defect after you’ve filled the pool. Step 10 After your liner passes inspection, spread it out in the sun. The sun's heat will warm up the vinyl, making it more pliable and easier to work with. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions regarding preparing the liner. Your owner’s manual should give you details about installing the liner, including punching out the skimmer and return holes. Remember, above ground pool liners are not meant to bear any of the weight of the water so they must rest on the ground in all areas.

Properly installed, there should be no air space between the liner and the ground, and no downward pressure on the liner. How you hang the liner on the pool wall will depend on the style of liner (overlap, beaded, or j-hook) so refer to the instruction manual for your above ground pool. Step 11 Since there is extra material to compensate for any shrinkage of the liner, wrinkles in the liner material is normal and unavoidable.

To smooth out the floor of the liner, gently push it toward the wall. To avoid damage, do not pull, drag or stretch the liner.

Air between the liner and the above ground pool wall can contribute to wrinkles. To decrease this, you can use a vacuum hose, inserting it through the skimmer hole in the pool wall behind the liner. Use masking tape and cardboard to seal any gaps around the skimmer hole and vacuum hose. Turn on the vacuum and gently adjust the liner while the vacuum is running. You can turn the vacuum off periodically if you reach any areas where the liner becomes difficult to adjust. The vacuum can continue to run as you fill the pool but be sure to keep the hose above water level at all times.

You can fill above ground pools with a common garden hose, or hire a water truck which is much faster. Ryan Posted: 7/13/2016 Hello, I am installing a 24' round. Due to my uneven ground and hard clay, I was unable to get the surface completely level.

When installing the pavers I am had to add dirt/clay to level them, I know, a big no no. I have added about 5-6 inches at the lowest point in increments and wetting/tamping. My blocks are within 1/2' all the way around. It has been very wet here and has settled some already. How much do you think it might settle, and should I continue or start over and try to dig down the higher side again? Thanks for your help! Buymesome Posted: 7/9/2012 Hello, I'm frantic!

Why is everything not easy! Well, we are sinking an above ground Doughboy into the ground all the way except for 6 inches. It has 7 inch metal top rails. The paver installer does not know how to come away from the pool with the travertine. He is used to concrete in grounds where you run a bullnose to the water. We bought travertine 6x12 x 1 1/4 inch.I thought he could turn one on it's side and go around the pool then lay the others flat, come off of there to form the patio.

He is coming this week, pool is 16x 24 and will go in this week. Any info would be greatly appreciated!!