1. Matbro Tr200 Parts Manual

Having a transmission problem on Matbro TR200 powershift. It was working fine then it just stopped, will not go forward or back and doesnt sound like the transmission is engageing. Ive checked the shuttle lever and everything was fine, so i checked handbrake switch it was working as it should. I had other things to do so i left it, when i came back it worked fine again but then stoped again 10 mins later.

The only thing that changed went it stops is the transmission would be get warmer, so i looked in the manual and under ' does the fault only happen when hot' it says to check solenoid valves. Could these be my problms and if so how to i check and diagnose which one and then how do i fix it, could it be a case of just removing it and cleaning it. Thanks for any help Update: The machine wont move when cold now and i checked to see if there was power going to the solenoid valves and there isnt, so im think its not them. In the manual it says theres transmission relays under the joystick but there not and i cannot find anymore than the 5 that are under the cover on the console, where could they be? On top of the solenoids is the euc that controls them are you saying you have no power to the ecu?

If so the prime suspect would be the multi pin plug on the main wiring loom, follow the loom that feeds the ecu back towards the engine bay right down in the bowls of the engine/transmission bay you will find a multipin plug pull it apart clean it and try again, if no joy check alll the pins and the wiring connections on the back of it. I have a wiring diagram for it too i think some were i can email you its differcult to read as only a scaned copy out of the manual but may help. There is a dump relay somewere but i cant be exact on were it is somewere in or under the panel in the backright hand corner, there are only two bolts holding the panel in so take them out and it will lift out and you can get under it to see wires easier. Quite sure it wont be a solenoid as you would have drive of some sort or other as it takes different combinations of solenoids to get the drive in any direction or gear, there wont be one that is specific to all gears and direction is what i'm getting at.

It'll either be knackered ecu, power to ecu or earth, or something on the dump circuit ie handbrake, joystick dump, relay etc I'm fairly sure the ecu is fused to so check them out and the wiring. I'm dew a holiday when the weather warms up abit sadly will be combining it with a debt collection visit to a certain chap up north owes me about £450! (he's not on here ) I know much about nothing really if anyone decides they are bored with my input then please say so, only trying to be helpfull How far North? I would love to buy you a pint if you get as far as us. Welcome to stay in the farmhouse cottage too. Might get you to have a look at my MLA and make it go down a bit faster while you're here though (Sorry for the roundabout way of asking if you can speed them up a bit.

The offer's genuine with no hidden costs btw) I think the indebted list will far outweigh the bored list and am disappointed that you're having to go chasing money. How far North? I would love to buy you a pint if you get as far as us. Welcome to stay in the farmhouse cottage too. Might get you to have a look at my MLA and make it go down a bit faster while you're here though (Sorry for the roundabout way of asking if you can speed them up a bit.

The offer's genuine with no hidden costs btw) I think the indebted list will far outweigh the bored list and am disappointed that you're having to go chasing money.if you mean the mla is delayed on the down wards stroke then yes that can be adjusted via the valve block (lock out valve) on the side of the ram, does it have CRC? (boom suspension) Or it might be that someone pluged in to the ecu and reduced the max pump output to compensate for another problem As it happens we had a holiday booked in end of last year in Askrigg whichh wount have been that far from you? But we had to cancel 3 days before due to go as i was having problems with my back and siatica down right leg, couldnt sit in the car for more than 5 mins or so leg when in to kramp mode really hurt, was well pee'd off as lost deposite.

If you mean the mla is delayed on the down wards stroke then yes that can be adjusted via the valve block (lock out valve) on the side of the ram, does it have CRC? (boom suspension) Or it might be that someone pluged in to the ecu and reduced the max pump output to compensate for another problem As it happens we had a holiday booked in end of last year in Askrigg whichh wount have been that far from you? But we had to cancel 3 days before due to go as i was having problems with my back and siatica down right leg, couldnt sit in the car for more than 5 mins or so leg when in to kramp mode really hurt, was well pee'd off as lost deposite Doesn't Lee have the same trouble. On top of the solenoids is the euc that controls them are you saying you have no power to the ecu? If so the prime suspect would be the multi pin plug on the main wiring loom, follow the loom that feeds the ecu back towards the engine bay right down in the bowls of the engine/transmission bay you will find a multipin plug pull it apart clean it and try again, if no joy check alll the pins and the wiring connections on the back of it.

I have a wiring diagram for it too i think some were i can email you its differcult to read as only a scaned copy out of the manual but may help. There is a dump relay somewere but i cant be exact on were it is somewere in or under the panel in the backright hand corner, there are only two bolts holding the panel in so take them out and it will lift out and you can get under it to see wires easier. Quite sure it wont be a solenoid as you would have drive of some sort or other as it takes different combinations of solenoids to get the drive in any direction or gear, there wont be one that is specific to all gears and direction is what i'm getting at. It'll either be knackered ecu, power to ecu or earth, or something on the dump circuit ie handbrake, joystick dump, relay etc I'm fairly sure the ecu is fused to so check them out and the wiring.Sorry i ment there is no power going to the solenoids from the ecu. Ive had another go today and removed the ecu to check all wires feeding to it (i have a wiring diagram but thanks anyway).

The power and the earths are all ok, theres continuity to the handbrake switch and i check power, earth & function of that yesterday. The dumps on the joystick and shuttle both send power to ecu. Its got a switchable dump feature on the brake pedal which is fed from a positive to the switch to i assume a pressure sensor on the brake line to the ecu, now i take it the transmission will dump when there is power from it and wont when the power is not. I check that the shuttle is sending power for forward & reverse and it is, i havent checked continuity on the wires for gear selection but i can see that being the problem. So all that narrows it down to the ecu but if is knacker would the fault show up intermitdly because it moved again this morning but stopped after 10 metres The serial number on the ecu is 3212 are they easy to find (great exportations are 15 mins away or hes a little further) and want sort of money? If you mean the mla is delayed on the down wards stroke then yes that can be adjusted via the valve block (lock out valve) on the side of the ram, does it have CRC?

(boom suspension) Or it might be that someone pluged in to the ecu and reduced the max pump output to compensate for another problem As it happens we had a holiday booked in end of last year in Askrigg whichh wount have been that far from you? But we had to cancel 3 days before due to go as i was having problems with my back and siatica down right leg, couldnt sit in the car for more than 5 mins or so leg when in to kramp mode really hurt, was well pee'd off as lost deposite Yes it is slow coming down and has boom suspension. Askrigg is beautiful if a but snowy at the moment, I hope the sciatica gets sorted soon.ouch. I might have a word with the Lad a Russels and see if he will plug his laptop in. All round speeds seem slower than I would expect, no quicker than the Matbro really. Just maintains the speeds for a lot longer. Yes it is slow coming down and has boom suspension.

Askrigg is beautiful if a but snowy at the moment, I hope the sciatica gets sorted soon.ouch. I might have a word with the Lad a Russels and see if he will plug his laptop in. All round speeds seem slower than I would expect, no quicker than the Matbro really.

Just maintains the speeds for a lot longer the sciatica pain in my leg only lasted a few days thank god, it took about a week to get some feeling back in my leg and toes stayed numb for about 3 weeks after. Seems okay now but lower back pain comes and goes all the time although not to the extent it was. Sounds like its had the pump out put reduced some what, ideally below 1200rpm flow should be reduced by 40%, above 1200rpm 100%, and when engine under load reduced by 40% again. Machine will have to be in top notch condition powerwise and have the new type pump with mod kit fitted to get it to work well.

The above is what manitou recommend but each machine is tailerd to suit by reducing the flow at idle or under load or the max flow as required in order to make sure the engine does not stall at idle or under load from the steering and transmission and main hydraulics all combined. Sorry i ment there is no power going to the solenoids from the ecu. Ive had another go today and removed the ecu to check all wires feeding to it (i have a wiring diagram but thanks anyway). The power and the earths are all ok, theres continuity to the handbrake switch and i check power, earth & function of that yesterday. The dumps on the joystick and shuttle both send power to ecu.

Its got a switchable dump feature on the brake pedal which is fed from a positive to the switch to i assume a pressure sensor on the brake line to the ecu, now i take it the transmission will dump when there is power from it and wont when the power is not. I check that the shuttle is sending power for forward & reverse and it is, i havent checked continuity on the wires for gear selection but i can see that being the problem. So all that narrows it down to the ecu but if is knacker would the fault show up intermitdly because it moved again this morning but stopped after 10 metres The serial number on the ecu is 3212 are they easy to find (great exportations are 15 mins away or hes a little further) and want sort of money?Getting back to the thread as i seem to have sent it off cause alittle! It is possible for the ecu to become intermitant i suspose, it is a JCB part after all! Does it not have a JCB part number on it?they normally have a silver sticker on the top of them but can often fall off. I thought i had a problem with one on a Terex T200 once which was intermitant on the forward drive so tried one off a Matbro TR200 which didnt cure the problem as it turned out to be the multi pin plug i said about earlier, although i was told the ecu's were the same on the terex and matbro the ecu off the terex wouldnt get all the gears and had a different program in it or something? I may have the JCB part number for the matbro one writen down in the parts book cant remember?

If you suspect the ecu i wonder if a jcb dealer can test them off the machine with there laptop? Check you have good power to the ecu not just with a multi metre! Actually put a load on the power supply like a 21watt bulb or something just as a test.

Matbro Tr200 Parts Manual

Not sure which way round the dump works power on or power off for drive? There are a couple of diodes on the dump circuit and on the reverse light circuit too, they should be under the panel with the fuse and relays. The only thing on the ecu is Serial Number 3212.

I like the bulb test and wiil try it. The dump circuit i tried with the wire disconnected and then a feed from the battery. Come to think about it, i will try that for the ecu power aswell. I cleaned up three plugs in the engine bay but they were pretty clean, ony a couple of pins had a small bit of oxidisation.

Thanks ace your help is much appreciated. Electrics is one of those things i can figure out straight away or fester over for months and get no were fast.

I have come across a problem like this today on a TR200. I was busy testing the plug at the ecu for good live and earth supplies when I noticed one of the wires to what looks like a diagnostic socket had rubbed through. This wire was red but had no power so I thought I would try power from the battery through a fuse and the handler would move again! Trouble is the gears don't work well in forward now, however they are fine in reverse.

Could anyone help me with a wiring diagram or advice please? As I feel i am working blindly at this. Have you located and checked the multi plug down the side of the engine bay on the right hand side it connects the transmission loom with the chassis loom.

I would not be powering anything up on an ECU willy nillly least of all from the diagnostic socket. A JCB dealer may be able to access the socket for you? I have a wiring diagram for a sanderson TL7 with the same gearbox that may help abit or it may just confuse you even more Yes I have checked that multi plug and it looked to be in good condition.

It seems to me that the ecu is missing a live feed so a wiring diagram could be a great help to me, then I may be able to run a wire to the correct connection! Yes I have checked that multi plug and it looked to be in good condition. It seems to me that the ecu is missing a live feed so a wiring diagram could be a great help to me, then I may be able to run a wire to the correct connection!the ECU 12v feed goes though that big round multi plug that lays down the side of the engine bay. Take the plug right apart so you can look at the back of the pins not just the bit you see when you pull it apart. Some times they get full of water/oil and alsorts, and sometimes the wires get pulled/disconnected from the pins. There is also a plug under the front plastic panel on the cab that does the steering column which will have the f/r lever wires in it. Also check the wiring plugs at back of cab, you can undo the mounting bolts for the switch/fuse box cover and lift it up and turn it upside down to get full access to the wiring under there.

There are some little diodes under there that are for the transmission dump/handbrake circuits I think and also to do with the reverse lights. PM me your email address and will send you the sanderson wiring.

It wont quite be the same but you should be able to see which is the main power feed on the ECU and which ones are for the dump switches/handbrake switches etc. Not familiar with this machine but I know on some they have a solenoid on top of transmission check there for power. Also some will have fuses for forward and reverse check them and also check to make sure the coils on the solenoid are activating. You can change the coils without replacing the entire solenoid on most types. I know we had a issue not too long ago with a machine that would go in reverse only even if it was in neutral and then if you swapped the wires on solenoid would only go forward no matter what and sometimes wouldn't move it ended up being the forward reverse fuses. On top of the solenoids is the euc that controls them are you saying you have no power to the ecu? If so the prime suspect would be the multi pin plug on the main wiring loom, follow the loom that feeds the ecu back towards the engine bay right down in the bowls of the engine/transmission bay you will find a multipin plug pull it apart clean it and try again, if no joy check alll the pins and the wiring connections on the back of it.

I have a wiring diagram for it too i think some were i can email you its differcult to read as only a scaned copy out of the manual but may help. There is a dump relay somewere but i cant be exact on were it is somewere in or under the panel in the backright hand corner, there are only two bolts holding the panel in so take them out and it will lift out and you can get under it to see wires easier. Quite sure it wont be a solenoid as you would have drive of some sort or other as it takes different combinations of solenoids to get the drive in any direction or gear, there wont be one that is specific to all gears and direction is what i'm getting at. It'll either be knackered ecu, power to ecu or earth, or something on the dump circuit ie handbrake, joystick dump, relay etc I'm fairly sure the ecu is fused to so check them out and the wiring.Hi ace. I have a matbro tr250 110 power shift.

Don't have it very long. It doesn't seem to like hills at all I have to go back to first gear if feels like the transmission isnt bitein or is this normal. I have a matbro tr250 110 power shift. Don't have it very long.

It doesn't seem to like hills at all I have to go back to first gear if feels like the transmission isnt bitein or is this normal. Thanksno its not normal, should hardly ever need 1st gear on these its so slow! Should spin the tyres in 2nd on concrete when pushing in to something solid. Look at the transmission pressure gauge on the dash, (top right hand gauge I think?) wants to be about half way or just under I think cant recall the readings on it?

Does it drop in pressure a lot when changing gears and then take a while to recover? Or does it even recover back to were it was in neutral? Have you check the transmission oil level? On the front of the transmission on the right hand side near the handbrake disc there are 2 bungs 9/16 socket, one has low and one has high written in the casing of the box with the engine on tick over take the high bung out and you should ideally have some oil coming out if not top it up with ATF oil and see what happens or change the oil and start again, could do that to see what colour it is and what it smells like! If black/brown and burnt smelling them clutches are knackered/slipping or its not had a oil change in a very very long time there is a filter on the top but its expensive and wont affect the pressure as if blocked it will just bypass so don't waste money on changing that in the vane hope it'll fix the issue cause it wont.

No its not normal, should hardly ever need 1st gear on these its so slow! Should spin the tyres in 2nd on concrete when pushing in to something solid. Look at the transmission pressure gauge on the dash, (top right hand gauge I think?) wants to be about half way or just under I think cant recall the readings on it? Does it drop in pressure a lot when changing gears and then take a while to recover? Or does it even recover back to were it was in neutral? Have you check the transmission oil level? On the front of the transmission on the right hand side near the handbrake disc there are 2 bungs 9/16 socket, one has low and one has high written in the casing of the box with the engine on tick over take the high bung out and you should ideally have some oil coming out if not top it up with ATF oil and see what happens or change the oil and start again, could do that to see what colour it is and what it smells like!

If black/brown and burnt smelling them clutches are knackered/slipping or its not had a oil change in a very very long time there is a filter on the top but its expensive and wont affect the pressure as if blocked it will just bypass so don't waste money on changing that in the vane hope it'll fix the issue cause it wont. No its not normal, should hardly ever need 1st gear on these its so slow! Should spin the tyres in 2nd on concrete when pushing in to something solid. Look at the transmission pressure gauge on the dash, (top right hand gauge I think?) wants to be about half way or just under I think cant recall the readings on it? Does it drop in pressure a lot when changing gears and then take a while to recover? Or does it even recover back to were it was in neutral?

Have you check the transmission oil level? On the front of the transmission on the right hand side near the handbrake disc there are 2 bungs 9/16 socket, one has low and one.